Zero Voc | Mold Proof | Interior Primer
RECOMMENDED FOR: Mold Abatement Projects, Drywall, Basements, Schools, Hospitals, Surgery Centers, Crawl Spaces, Attics, Inside Wall Cavities, Interior Walls, Wineries, Museums, Antiques Storage, Yurts, Indoor Pool Areas, Boats, Flood Zones, Commercial Properties, Rental Properties...
INTRO: Lime Prime is a high quality primer that will harden drywall mud, directly cover mold stains and provide a strong base for coatings to adhere. It is used on its own for severe mold abatement situations such as basements, flood damage, wineries, property management, hospitals and schools. Lime Prime is excellent as a super duty drywall primer to harden drywall surfaces and provide a breathable, non flammable surface for future coatings to adhere. Instead of using toxic chemical biocides, many builders have turned to Lime Prime to spray on wall cavities and the shell of the building before drywall goes up. This offers the homeowner added protection at a competitive cost. Lime Prime replaces low quality, toxic vinyl acetate primers for drywall, improving wall smoothness, hardness and durability. It is the only of its kind. Zero Voc, mold proof, non flammable, mineral primer that can be painted directly over mold stains.
1.) Mold Abatement / Mold Remediation
2.) Mold Prevention in Wall Cavities
3.) Drywall Primer
4.) More Details
5.) Technical Information
Mold Abatement / Mold Remediation
MOLD ABATEMENT / MOLD REMEDIATION: Mold Removal and Clean up can be dangerous to health, costly and difficult. Nobody wants a black mold problem to clean up but when it happens Lime Prime is the best helper there is. Simply put, it makes it possible to paint musty smells away! With Lime Prime we never worry about mold abatement anymore! Looking at an area where Lime Prime was painted directly over mold stains it is very clear. It works. Years later, no mold! The breathable surface is still as white as the day it was coated despite high humidity and shade; even on basement walls that still leak. There are no toxic chemical mildewcides in Lime Prime. It gets its strength naturally, derived from minerals. It works in a natural way, without the use of poisons.
MOLD REMOVAL AND PREP: Some people wash the mold stains first with bleach to kill mold and get dirt and debris off the surface. This is good to do when it can be done safely but it is not necessary for Lime Prime to work. Lime Prime is strong enough to go directly onto the surface of the mold stain. Since it is much stronger than bleach for this use it doesn't matter if bleach is used or not. Lime Prime will cover the surface and keep it protected.
MOLD REMOVAL OF HEAVY DEBRIS: For regular drywall priming the surface should be cleaned but if mold stains are present a different approach may be warranted. The best thing to do is clean off the heavy debris and then paint with Lime Prime directly over the mold stains. Sometimes it is not possible for people to do this and all they do is paint. If there is so much dirt or debris on the surface that Lime Prime can't adhere then that area may peel in certain heavy areas later on. This might seem like a bad thing but not if you consider how dangerous floating debris from mold infestations can be. Some mold abatement studies show even dead mold is dangerous. In this case Lime Prime is pretty easily cleaned off where heavy debris caused peeling and it is then repainted. It takes a lot of debris to make Lime Prime peel so in most cases this is not an issue and it is always better to clean the surface if you can. But in actual practice we have found that often people just can't do the clean up, so this section is here so that you know what to expect. Lime Prime still works, you just might have to touch up spots in some areas where too much dirt was left on the surface.
Fixing Water infiltration and Air Circulation and removal of mold are also part of mold remediation work but Lime Prime will take care of the wall surfaces and make them clean and safe. Sometimes people can't afford full scale remediation in which case Lime Prime can help. It offers a way to keep the wall surfaces protected and clean indefinitely or until the moisture can be stopped from coming into the building. Lime Prime is breathable, very breathable actually. It doesn't trap water. So even if it is used in an area where there is a lot of moisture or even standing water, Lime Prime will work without trapping that moisture and causing more mold. This may seem quite simple but many coatings will actually make mold worse by trapping moisture and fostering mold growth.
MOLD STAINS INSIDE THE WALLS: If mold is growing on the outside of the wall it usually grows inside the wall as well. Often times it can be found to be heaviest at the base of the wall, toward the floor, especially near concrete floors. It grows in concrete floors. Paint all these stains with Lime Prime. Cut holes in drywall and spray Lime Prime into the wall cavity if possible. Sometimes the drywayll is cut out 4' from the floor and replaced. Before reinstalling new drywall, paint all sides of it with Lime Prime and paint inside the wall and the floor. Paint concrete floors where carpet will be reinstalled. Painting a 12 inch border around concrete foundations can be helpful if visbility is not an issue.
PREVENTION: COATING WALL CAVITIES WITH LIME PRIME: Coating the Wall Cavities with Lime Prime can seal in any mold stains that are there and help prevent any more from returning. Itís fast and easy to spray on after the sheathing and roof go up, before anything else is in the building. Painters can come in and spray most buildings in a day. Often, they will be done by the afternoon and other crews can return to work. Since there isnít usually windows, doors, trim and fixtures that needs to be protected in a building at this point the painters prep is very limited and spraying begins quickly after arrival. Itís mostly just tools and maybe concrete slabs to cover with drop cloths. The great thing is that the carpenters donít have suck up a bunch of biocide covered sawdust and the cost of Lime Prime is quite competitive on a per square foot basis.
WOOD COATED WITH GREEN BIOCIDES: There is a fad right now to buy wood that is coated with a chemical biocide. There is no need to fill your Building up with Green Poison coated lumber. This chemical fad of coating wood with more chemicals is really unfortunate. Carpenters don't need more chemicals to chop up with their saws and the earth doesn't need more chemicals that eventually wind up in the ground or in landfills.
MOLD OFTEN ENTERS THE BUILDING DURING CONSTRUCTION: Mold spores are everywhere but there are ways that they enter a building in mass. Construction, like mold, thrives in spring and summer. Millions of houses are built in the high humidity of the summer. The wood sits outside growing mold. The sheathing sits outside getting rained on, growing mold. Then the shell is assembled and soon the walls are closed in permanently with sheetrock. If the wood is too wet or walls are poorly vented mold colonies or even rotting can start right away.
Mold absolutely loves 80F a little moisture and a some shade. This almost exactly describes most wall cavities during summer month construction. All too often sheetrock locks in the darkness and moisture that mold and mildew thrive in. On top of this sheetrock is partly made out of paper which is food for mold. Mold and Mildew exploit this feeding and colonize. Sealing in the wall cavities in a building in a high humidity area can often guarantee a future of mold problems for the inhabitants. Mold can even sit dormant for long periods and then thrive with some moisture presence.
A HIGH QUALITY INTERIOR DRYWALL PRIMER WILL: 1.) Soak into the gypsum, hardening and strengthening it. 2.) It will build up on the surface and help hide imperfections. 3.) It will have enough build up so that it can be sanded to help create a smoother surface. 4.) It will provide a strong tether and tooth for paint to bite into.
PRIMING DRYWALL - LEVEL IV & V GYPSUM BOARD FINISH SPECIFICATIONS: Drywall mud is made out of Gypsum which is a relatively cheap and soft material that tends to get more brittle over time. Lime has historically been used to increase hardness and reduce the brittleness of Gypsum, especially in plasters. When smooth wall finishes are specified what usually happens is that the drywall is given a skim coat of gypsum mud over the entire wall and then a cheap vinyl acetate (yuck!) primer is used to seal it in. The final result is sometimes disappointing especially if angular light is shed across the surface revealing a far from smooth surface. If a lime plaster is used it usually works out much better but takes skilled labor and more expense.
Lime Prime can help to balance a gypsum drywall system and provide a better finish on interior walls. By using a high quality lime based primer over gypsum you get greater build of the film while increasing hardness and long term durability. Lime Prime soaks deep into the gypsum, encapsulating it and hardening it. Itís a thick, rich primer, with incredible hiding power. These are the qualities a primer should have for the most important coat. The first coat. All other coats of paint for the life of the building are dependent on the first primer coating being strong and worthy. The last thing you want is a toxic low quality primer used for the first coat since it will be what all other coats depend on for strength. If it fails they all go with it. The final appearance is significantly affected by the primer as well.
USING LIME PRIME AS THE FINAL COAT: Lime Prime is made to react with the surface, be breathable and give a really good surface for the final paint coats to bite into. Itís not meant to be perfectly smooth like a top coat should be. Itís made to be useful during mold abatement; to have enough build and girth to be sanded and enough tooth to be painted over. However, there are many instances when it is used as the final coat. This includes severe mold areas such as Basements, Crawl Spaces, Flooded Areas, Attics, Bathroom Ceilings, Wall Cavities, Barns, Livestock Areas, Food Storage Areas and other areas where a flat, white appearance is acceptable. The benefit of not top coating Lime Prime is that it is more mold proof than any other paint we know of. Mold just doesnít like to grow on it and the surface stays protected. The downside is that itís not shiny or smooth the way a top coat is designed to be.
PAINTING OVER LIME PRIME: You can paint over Lime Prime with any water or oil based paint. Clear Skies Eggshell Paint is engineered to go directly over Lime Prime and still maintain some of the mold proof qualities that Lime Prime provides.
BASEMENTS: Paint the entire basement with Lime Prime. Not many areas could possibly need it more! Give cement or concrete walls a coat or two. It will brighten them and leave the room smelling clean. It also gives you a way of keeping the musty odors under control.
WINERIES: Lime Prime is used on Wineries to keep mold stains and musty odors from getting out of control. For large areas it is sprayed and on concrete walls it is usually best to back roll with a 3/4" nap roller. Apply thick into cracks and back roll. Wineries in France are notorious for using limewash as a way of keeping a fresh, clean surface. Limewash kills mold and acts as a antimicrobial agent. Wooden vats will also absorb odor from mold. They will absorb odor from toxic paint. Lime Prime is based on lime but is much stronger than limewash which loses it's strength in about a year, as do most petrochemical based mold paints. Chemical mildewcides don't usually work very long. The ones we have seen stop working after about 12-18 months in a basement like setting. Lime Prime is the king of this realm, staying strong and true for up to 6 years. Two coats are applied in severe conditions. Wineries that are cave like are considered severe conditions and should get two coats and then recoated after 6 years or as needed.
BATHROOM CEILINGS: Bathroom ceilings do well when given two coats of Lime Prime and left white. This allows the active molecules in Lime Prime to avoid mold stains that might have otherwise developed. Itís not made as a top coat but if you have a mold problem it may look better with just two coats of Lime Prime.
LIMITATIONS: If a flood occurs and Lime Prime gets soaked it is possible for mold to colonize. We have never seen it grow in or through Lime Prime but we have seen mold use dead mold spores or dirt to serve as a bridge, keeping itself away from Lime Prime then growing outward. The good thing about this is that the surface has always stayed protected in every situation we have seen. Conditions to cause this must be severe and it shows how resourceful mold is.
LIFECYCLE: Nature is incredible at causing decay and when the building is ultimately torn down and sent to a landfill Lime Prime will break down in the ground and become mostly harmless calcium carbonate.
ENVIRONMENTAL PROFILE: Does not contain Bleach, Biocides, Mildewcides or Toxic Petrochemical Solvents. Product will not create or contribute to acid rain or global warming because lime naturally absorbs Carbon Dioxide-CO2 out of the atmosphere and becomes Calcium Carbonate which is commonly used in antacids and is safe. It takes energy to make and use so it is considered a net zero in carbon footprint.
GOING FOR GLASS - A FINISH SCHEDULE FOR AN ARTISAN GRADE WALL: One coat of Lime Prime is all that is required for a Level IV or V finish. If you really want to make a surface glass smooth it could be done well by treating Lime Prime like a sort of liquid lime based skim coat. This could be done after the gypsum skim coat with a couple coats of Lime Prime pole sanded between coats - 120 first - then 150 grit - and then a couple high quality top coats of Clear Skies Satin or other premium Gloss paint applied with a mohair roller. Sand between coats with 150. Wow. Thatís smooth. Now put the cherry on top! Roll a coat of NanoTech for a semi gloss or Mountain Clear 00 on last if you want a real oil gloss thatís bombproof. Is this overkill? Yep! Definitely. But itís a really cool looking wall!
BASIC TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Sheen: Natural Flat Finish.
Theoretical Coverage Rough: 100-250 sft / gl
Theoretical Coverage Smooth: 250-350 sft / gl
Coats Required: 1 to 2, rolled.
Dry Time: 60 minutes.
Recoat: 90-120 minutes, sand between coats.
Suitable Top Coats: Any Water or Oil Based Paint.
Best Top Coat for Mold Areas: Clear Skies Eggshell
Severe High Mold / High Moisture Area: 2 Coats of Lime Prime. No Top Coat.
Clean Up: Water
Dilution: None necessary, up to 32 oz / gl with water if desired. For spraying add one gallon of water to four gallons of Lime Prime and mix with a drill mixer for five minutes.
Smell in the room the next day: Hardly detectable.
Zero VOC: 0 gr / l
Maintenance: Lightly sand any rough or loose areas and recoat as needed.
How to do Mold Remediation in 19 Steps