A Wood Finish Review Listed by Wood Type
A review of the best wood finish options for common wood types. These are cultivated out of our experience of wood finishing for many decades. Wood characteristics vary a great deal so we make no guarantees or steadfast claims on your wood type. This is just what we have found and publish it here in the hope that it is helpful.
Exterior
Deck Testing Method For Exterior Horizontal Surfaces
Recommended Before Applying Top Coats To Flat Deck Surfaces: 1.) Wash with Lime Clean. 2.) Apply a single penetrating coat of Mountain XT Deck Stain to the entire deck. 3.) Top Coat a few horizontal deck boards for testing. Choose high weather exposure boards and top coat fully with Mountain XT Clear 00. 4.) Observe these test boards over the course of a year. If they still look perfect in a year, you know what the best deck stain is. Then the next time you do your deck you follow the steps above but add step five. 5.) Apply Mountain XT Clear 00 until the wood fiber is fully covered. Now you confidently own the longest lasting, most beautiful deck on earth!
Pressure Treated
Primarily Decks. Most common deck wood used in America. Pressure treated wood is saturated with chemicals but these wont stop black mold or algae or the greying caused by sun and water. It has been found to have negative health and environmental issues, most notably in playgrounds, which is a good reason to paint it. This wood typically has the most movement outside, particularly on horizontal surfaces. Because of the lower quality of the wood and the amount of moisture and chemicals in the wood most stains and wood finishes don't last much more than a year on Pressure Treated wood. This is the hard truth no homeowner wants to learn about their pressure treated deck and is part of the reason Earthpaint wood finish became so popular. Because it lasts.
Three Options for Coating Pressure Treated Wood.
Pressure Treated Paint: Paint seems to last the longest and seals in alot of the chemicals but it shouldn't be painted until it has weathered one year. When you do paint pressure treated wood use Clear Skies Matte, one or two coats directly on the wood after washing with Lime Clean-Wood and Deck Cleaner. A clear top coat with Mountain XT Clear 00 is optional on the rails and creates a stronger weather barrier. This is a fast, easy and safe method to sealing pressure treated wood. Choose darker brown tones that hide dirt better unless you plan on washing your deck often. Paint one coat on the horizontal deck surface the first year so you can see how it holds up. Reapply as needed. Clear Skies will dry in an hour on a deck outside.Penetrating Deck Stain: Most people like their decks stained natural. They want to see the wood grain. One coat of Penetrating stain is a good looking solution. Rainforest Sealer and Mountain XT have held up incredibly well, even in extreme conditions. If you are only doing one penetrating stain coat then Mountain XT is the best deck stain. This cashew based resin has many inherent resistances to harsh exterior wood conditions and cashew resin doesn't feed black mold and algae growth. The simplest way to stain a deck outside is to wash it with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and apply one coat of Mountain XT. This is a penetrating deck stain that will never peel and be easy to maintain. It is high density resin that doesn't evaporate but stays in the wood year after year allowing your maintenance coats to build upon previous applications strengths.
Deck Stain with a Top Coat: For those who want even more durability you may want to explore the option of a Stain and Topcoat. Specifically, stain with Rainforest Sealer and topcoat with Mountain XT Clear 00 until the wood fiber is completely covered. Mountain XT is engineered to be flexible enough to move with most wood without delaminating. If you use XT as a topcoat you are committing to maintaining that film and you must test first to make sure your wood type will support a long term film. The wood must be weathered at least one year.
Deck Testing: 1.) Wash with Lime Clean. 2.) Apply a single penetrating coat of Mountain XT Deck Stain to the entire deck. 3.) Coat a few horizontal deck boards for testing. Choose high weather exposure boards and top coat fully with Mountain XT Clear 00. 4.) Observe these test boards over the course of a year. If they still look perfect in a year, you know what the best deck stain is. Then the next time you do your deck you follow the steps above but add step five. 5.) Apply Mountain XT Clear 00 until the wood fiber is fully covered.
To maintain a Stain and Topcoat just sand, clean and recoat the areas that look weathered or appear to need it every spring and it will get stronger and stronger. If you use XT as a penetrating oil stain you can just let it go. But it if you use the Rainforest and then XT as the topcoat you will create a film that needs to be recoated in the areas that get worn the fastest. The nice thing about this option is that its pretty easy to maintain if you keep up with it. The deck doesn't need to be completely stripped and redone and the layers build up fastest in the areas that need it. Testing first is a vital first step. So just do one coat this year and watch the test area to see how it does.
What We Do On Our Pressure Treated Decks: Wash first with Lime Clean- Wood and Deck Cleaner. Then we stain the deck with Light Cedar, Brown Cedar or Cinnamon Stick. These are favorite stain colors for pressure treated decks. Rails: Rainforest and Mountain XT is applied to all the rails and then we don't worry about anything but the top rail for a long time. Rails weather well and with a good stain and topcoat they last a long time. The horizontal top rail needs to be checked every year but this is very easy to do. Deck Floor: For the horizontal surfaces just a single penetrating coat of Mountain XT is the best. This way if we get busy or don't feel like checking the deck in the spring we don't have to. When all things are considered this is really the best deck stain system for pressure treated wood.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Pressure Treated Wood: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer.
Ipe'Primarily decks. This is a hard, oily deck wood with lots of tannic acid. It dries out fast and tends to crack and split if not coated. Ipe turns grey quickly outdoors with sun and water exposure. If you like the grey look and don't mind some splitting its fine to leave untreated. If you want the original reddish brown hues to remain visible you will need to coat your deck. Its really too bad this wood is cut down from Rainforests and I don't believe for a second that its sustainably forested. BUT since it's been cut down and shipped thousands of miles it may as well be preserved the best possible way. We spent many years looking at this wood in particular and have found a couple great solutions that work very well on Ipe decks. To be clear nothing we have seen works nearly as well or looks as good as the following system on Ipe Decks.
New Ipe Deck: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. This will nuetralize all of the tannic acid that is on or near the surface. Rinse with Pure White Distilled Vinegar if you are not staining the wood and want to brighten it. Dry well, sand lightly and apply Rainforest or Mountain XT as a penetrating sealer. This can be applied clear and is really just the first step to long term Ipe preservation. This first step cleans the oils and allows the wood to dry slowly while minimizing any cracking and splitting in the deck.
6-12 Months later: Wash again with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. Dry, sand lightly (100 grit on pole sander quickly) Brush on a coat of Rainforest. Top coat with Mountain XT until the wood fiber is completely covered. This system holds up very well and because Ipe is so hard, once the oils are nuetralized the Mountain XT keeps that rich, beautiful reddish brown color. Make sure you check the horizontal surfaces every spring and recoat the boards that need it. Do this and you will have the best looking deck on the planet. (If you don't plan on doing any yearly check up on your deck apply only one penetrating coat of Mountain XT. ) Antil Slip Deck Finish: Broadcast (throw fast high into the air) fine sand over the wet deck to create an even, good looking anti slip effect.
Penetrating Stain and Color Selection: If you just want to apply a penetrating stain the best looking colors for Ipe are Brown Cedar and Cinnamon Stick. The longest lasting colors are Raisin, Toffee and Cinnamon Stick. Brown Cedar holds up nearly as well as Cinnamon Stick but not as long. On weathered Ipe that is fully acclimated when stained the Cinnamon Stick has held up for 2-3 years before needing recoating.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Ipe: Unfortunately, this is what too many Ipe decks have become. Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. Dry, Sand well if you want to reveal the fresh wood underneath. Or if you plan on staining the wood a reddish color such as Bark or Cinnamon Stick tends to look better. Coat with Rainforest. Top coat with Mountain XT until the wood is completely covered. Your deck now looks much better, much longer.
Cedar and Redwood
Mostly decks and siding. Cedar is a great looking wood that weathers well. Turns grey and black when untreated. If you don't mind the weathered look it can be left untreated until it needs to be replaced. If you want that rich golden brown cedar tone then we have the best wood finish for you. Rainforest and Mountain XT look absolutely amazing on Cedar and Redwood!
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish: To get a long lasting clear natural finish on cedar you actually will do best by adding a little stain. Brown Cedar is the best color for this since it matches the wood nicely and provides a goot bit of protection against UV Radiation. Apply one coat of Mountain XT tinted to Brown Cedar.
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish with a Weather Barrier Topcoat: Cedar and Redwood can be kept in great shape even longer with a top coat of Mountain XT Clear 00. Do this on vertical surfaces and leave the horizontal surfaces with one penetrating oil finish of Mountain XT. For vertical siding, rails, timbers and trim made out of cedar coat first with Rainforest tinted to Brown Cedar. This is your flexible base coat. Then top coat with Mountain XT clear, until the wood fibers are completely covered. This is a super long lasting cedar finish that resists greying and black mold stains better than anything we have seen.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Cedar: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer. If your wood darkens upon washing simply spray, roll or pour White Distilled Vinegar onto the wood and let it dry in the sun without rinsing it.
Mahogany
A beautiful and rich colored wood that is used inside as well as outside for decks and trim. It is a hard wood that accepts coatings well. Mahogany looks stunning with Rainforest and Mountain XT. Rainforest really brings up the grain and XT keeps it that way with more depth. It's unusual to see an exterior wood this rich and charactered. If you own a mahogany deck or trim you are very fortunate.
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. To get a long lasting clear natural wood finish on mahogany you actually will do best by adding a little stain. Honey, Light Cedar and Brown Cedar all look nice on Mahogany. Brown Cedar gives teh most protection against UV Radiation of these three colors. Cinnamon Stick is a nice light color that holds up the best in harsh sunlight. Its fine to choose any color you like or leave it clear, we simply find that a light stain helps over the years. Brush and roll one coat of Mountain XT tinted into your mahogany deck or trim for the best finish. Rainforest can also be used the same way with exceptional results but XT is the best.
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish with a Weather Barrier Topcoat: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. Dry thoroughly (below 18%). Sand lightly (100 grit on pole sander quickly) Brush on a coat of Rainforest. Top coat with Mountain XT until the wood fiber is completely covered; Two coats. Broadcast fine sand over the wet deck to create a real even, good looking anti slip effect. This system holds up very well and because mahogany is so hard, once the oils are nuetralized the Mountain XT keeps that rich, beautiful golden brown color. Make sure you check the horizontal surfaces every spring and recoat the boards that need it. Do this and you will have the best looking deck on the planet. (If you don't plan on doing any yearly check up on your deck apply only one penetrating coat of Mountain XT on horizontal surfaces. )
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Mahogany: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer.
White Pine Logs
Very common wood used for log homes. A soft wood wood with alot of movement while weathering. Susceptible to black mold, algae, fungi, splitting and cracking as well as insects. A good wood preservative treatment is recommended such as a borate treatment. Once you have that applied this and allowed the wood to dry for at least 2-4 weeks, you are ready for Rainforest and Mountain XT.
Penetrating Natural Log Finish Stain: Wash weathered logs that are untreated and outside for more than 2 weeks. Even though they may look fine, these are dirty logs that need to be washed with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner to get microbrials off as well as break the mill glaze. To get a long lasting natural finish on White Pine Logs you actually will do best by adding a little stain. Any of our wood stains are good for this but the log finish stains are ideally suited for white pine logs and provide a goot bit of protection against UV Radiation. Apply one coat of Mountain XT tinted the desired stain color by brush and roller and let it soak deeply into the wood.
Penetrating Natural Log Finish Stain with a Weather Barrier Topcoat: White Pine Logs can be kept in great shape even longer with a top coat of Mountain XT. Do this on vertical surfaces and leave the horizontal surfaces with one penetrating oil finish of Mountain XT. For vertical siding, rails, timbers and trim made out of White Pine Logs coat first with Rainforest tinted to a stain color. This is your flexible base coat. Then top coat with Mountain XT clear 00, until the wood fibers are completely covered. This is a super long lasting White Pine Logs finish that resists greying and black mold stains better than anything we have seen. This also significantly reduces splitting and cracking at the center, heartwood area of the log.
Log Homes can be coated the Rainforest Clear 00 and two coats of Mountain XT Clear 00. This is an all natural clear finish that allows the full glory of the wood to show through and lasts incredibley. A clear maintenance coats should be applied 2, 3, 5 year intervals using Mountain XT Clear 00. This is probably the best looking, longest lasting log finish there is.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered White Pine Logs: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer.
Locust
Primarily decks. This is a hard, rot resistant wood with an incredible naturally golden color. It dries out fast and tends to crack and split if not coated. Locust turns grey and black quickly outdoors with sun and water exposure. If you like the grey look and don't mind some splitting its fine to leave untreated. If you want the original golden hues to remain visible you will need to coat your deck. These golden hues will take on a rich reddish gold color int the sun. We spent many years looking at this wood in particular and have found a couple great solutions that work very well on locust decks. To be clear nothing we have seen works nearly as well or looks as good as the following system on locust Decks.
New Locust Deck & Trim: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. This will clean the wood and nuetralize all of the tannic acid that is on or near the surface. Rinse with Pure White Distilled Vinegar if you want to brighten up the color after washing. Dry well, sand lightly and apply Mountain XT as a penetrating sealer and wood stain. This can be applied clear but if you add some Honey stain it will weather better and not dramatically effect the color the wood is going to turn in the sun. We've also found that using half of the Brown Cedar stain formula looks really nice on new Locust. This is really just the first step to long term locust preservation. This first step cleans the oils and allows the wood to dry slowly while minimizing any cracking and splitting in the deck. Your deck is then correctly prepared for the long term protection in the next step.
6-12 Months Later: Wash again with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and rinse with water. Then pour White Distilled Vinegar onto the wood and let dry in the sun to brighten it up. Dry, sand 50 grit. Brush on a coat of Rainforest Sealer Clear 00 and then two coats of Mountain XT Clear 00. This system holds up very well and because locust is so hard, once the oils are nuetralized the Mountain XT keeps that rich, beautiful golden red color. Make sure you check the horizontal surfaces every spring and recoat the boards that need it with Mountain XT Clear 00. Do this and you will have the best looking deck on the planet. (If you don't plan on doing any yearly check up on your deck apply only one penetrating coat of Mountain XT. )
In harsh, high sun climates like the Arizona desert it is best to apply a penetrating stain of Cinnamon Stick or Brown Cedar. Then you can do a 1 year test of Mountain XT Clear 00 on a few boards and make sure the heat and UV Radiation are not too intense on the wood. In these climates Locust needs extra time to acclimate before top coating since intense heat and uv will make the wood expand and contract more and the heat effects the way the tannins work within the wood cells. As a general rule if you have a wood deck desert like climates you should plan on using Rainforest Sealer Cinnamon Stick or Brown Cedar as a one coat penetrating stain.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Locust Deck and Trim: Unfortunately, this is what too many locust decks have become. Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and see your deck come back to life! Follow the steps in the "6-12 months later" outline above and your deck will look much better, much longer.
Interior Wood Finish Options Listed by Wood Type
Oak
Oak is most often stained first. It accepts the stain fairly even with the grain accepting a great bit more color. This makes the grain pop or stain out more. Some times people want to keep the lighter tones of the wood. To do this use Bio Poly NT as a clear rubbing oil or use NanoTech for a hard protective film that stays clear.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Oak: Mountain makes the best stain for oak. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The oak tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Oak: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will soak in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is becaus it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Oak: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for oak. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Oak Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact on maple we've seen it yellow less after 4 years than a section that was left raw and untreated.
Mopped On Oak Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Pine
Pine is a very common wood. It is know for its blotchy stain acceptance. Its generally not easy to stain pine and get it to look like cedar or mahogany or walnut but this is often requested. It's a soft wood that can be preconditioned to limit the blotchy stain acceptance. To do this just cut the product you are using in half and the recoat with full strength stain 1 to 12 hours later as desired. You will need to work out your formula and method before doing large areas. Pine probably takes the most time to get the color and method correct. Do samples first and get it all set before starting. Some times people want to keep the lighter tones of the wood. To do this use Bio Poly NT as a clear rubbing oil or use NanoTech for a hard protective film that stays clear.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Pine: Mountain makes the best stain for Pine. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Pine tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the pine a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Pine: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Pine: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for Pine. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Pine Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Pine Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Yellow Pine
Yellow Pine often comes with a hard mill glaze on it. This must be AGGRESSIVELY sanded off in order to get proper stain acceptance. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 if desired. Yellow Pins is known for its blotchy stain acceptance. Its generally not easy to stain Yellow Pine and get it to look like cedar or mahogany or walnut but this is often requested. It's a soft wood that can be preconditioned to limit the blotchy stain acceptance. To do this just cut the product you are using in half and the recoat with full strength stain 1 to 12 hours later as desired. You will need to work out your formula and method before doing large areas. Yellow Pine takes alot of time to get the color and method correct. Do samples first and get it all set before starting. Some times people want to keep the lighter tones of the wood. To do this use Bio Poly NT as a clear rubbing oil or use NanoTech for a hard protective film that stays clear.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Yellow Pine: Mountain makes the best stain for Yellow Pine. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Yellow Pine tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Yellow Pine a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Yellow Pine: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Yellow Pine: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Yellow Pine Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Yellow Pine Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Heart Pine
Heart Pine is often a RECLAIMED WOOD. It most alway needs an 4-5 coats. It tends to be very dry and thirsty wood. If you're lucky enough to have new Heart Pine then it should be a 2-3 coat process. Many people want their Heart Pine to stay just like it does when it's raw. This won't happen since it will darken even if left raw. Bio Poly NT keeps it very natural looking and darkens it up minimally and probably looks the best, bringing up the rich, red toned grains. NanoTech darkens it the least and stays very clear. Importantly, there can be sap that comes out of Heart Pine. This can cause coating failure. If your not sure if your wood is done releasing sap coat it with Bio Poly NT and go back over it a year later with a topcoat if desired.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Heart Pine: Mountain makes the best stain for Heart Pine. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Heart Pine tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Heart Pine a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Heart Pine: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Heart Pine: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Heart Pine Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Heart Pine Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Maple
Maple can have some of the more exquisite figuring and wood grain. It looks fantastic when coated with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Maple. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Maple: Mountain makes the best stain for Maple. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Maple tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Maple a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Maple: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Maple: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Maple Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Maple Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Cherry
Cherry can have some of the more exquisite figuring and wood grain. It looks fantastic when coated with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Cherry. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Cherry: Mountain makes the best stain for Cherry. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Cherry tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Cherry a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Cherry: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Cherry: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Cherry Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Cherry we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Cherry Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Walnut
Walnut is just unbelievably awesome. What a great looking wood! Rich browns are blown righ out of the wood and the grain can really jump when rubbed with Bio Poly NT. It looks fantastic when coated with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Walnut. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to. NanoTech can be used as well and some contractors are able to get a nice rubbed sating finish with product simply by sanding in between coats.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Walnut: Mountain makes the best stain for Walnut. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Walnut tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Walnut a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Walnut: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Walnut: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Walnut Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Walnut we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Walnut Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Sycamore
Sycamore is a spectacular looking wood that is not as stable and tends to crack more easily. It looks fantastic when rubbed with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Sycamore. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Sycamore: Mountain makes the best stain for Sycamore. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Sycamore tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Sycamore a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Sycamore: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Sycamore: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Sycamore Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Sycamore we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Sycamore Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Brazillian Cherry
Brazillian Cherry looks absolutely exotic when rubbed with Bio Poly NT. It looks fantastic when coated with Mountain as well. But the rubbed finish on this wood is one of the best! This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Brazillian Cherry. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Brazillian Cherry: Mountain makes the best stain for Brazillian Cherry. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Brazillian Cherry tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Brazillian Cherry a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Brazillian Cherry: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Brazillian Cherry: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Brazillian Cherry Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Brazillian Cherry we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Brazillian Cherry Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
A review of the best wood finish options for common wood types. These are cultivated out of our experience of wood finishing for many decades. Wood characteristics vary a great deal so we make no guarantees or steadfast claims on your wood type. This is just what we have found and publish it here in the hope that it is helpful.
Exterior
Deck Testing Method For Exterior Horizontal Surfaces
Recommended Before Applying Top Coats To Flat Deck Surfaces: 1.) Wash with Lime Clean. 2.) Apply a single penetrating coat of Mountain XT Deck Stain to the entire deck. 3.) Top Coat a few horizontal deck boards for testing. Choose high weather exposure boards and top coat fully with Mountain XT Clear 00. 4.) Observe these test boards over the course of a year. If they still look perfect in a year, you know what the best deck stain is. Then the next time you do your deck you follow the steps above but add step five. 5.) Apply Mountain XT Clear 00 until the wood fiber is fully covered. Now you confidently own the longest lasting, most beautiful deck on earth!
Pressure Treated
Primarily Decks. Most common deck wood used in America. Pressure treated wood is saturated with chemicals but these wont stop black mold or algae or the greying caused by sun and water. It has been found to have negative health and environmental issues, most notably in playgrounds, which is a good reason to paint it. This wood typically has the most movement outside, particularly on horizontal surfaces. Because of the lower quality of the wood and the amount of moisture and chemicals in the wood most stains and wood finishes don't last much more than a year on Pressure Treated wood. This is the hard truth no homeowner wants to learn about their pressure treated deck and is part of the reason Earthpaint wood finish became so popular. Because it lasts.
Three Options for Coating Pressure Treated Wood.
Pressure Treated Paint: Paint seems to last the longest and seals in alot of the chemicals but it shouldn't be painted until it has weathered one year. When you do paint pressure treated wood use Clear Skies Matte, one or two coats directly on the wood after washing with Lime Clean-Wood and Deck Cleaner. A clear top coat with Mountain XT Clear 00 is optional on the rails and creates a stronger weather barrier. This is a fast, easy and safe method to sealing pressure treated wood. Choose darker brown tones that hide dirt better unless you plan on washing your deck often. Paint one coat on the horizontal deck surface the first year so you can see how it holds up. Reapply as needed. Clear Skies will dry in an hour on a deck outside.Penetrating Deck Stain: Most people like their decks stained natural. They want to see the wood grain. One coat of Penetrating stain is a good looking solution. Rainforest Sealer and Mountain XT have held up incredibly well, even in extreme conditions. If you are only doing one penetrating stain coat then Mountain XT is the best deck stain. This cashew based resin has many inherent resistances to harsh exterior wood conditions and cashew resin doesn't feed black mold and algae growth. The simplest way to stain a deck outside is to wash it with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and apply one coat of Mountain XT. This is a penetrating deck stain that will never peel and be easy to maintain. It is high density resin that doesn't evaporate but stays in the wood year after year allowing your maintenance coats to build upon previous applications strengths.
Deck Stain with a Top Coat: For those who want even more durability you may want to explore the option of a Stain and Topcoat. Specifically, stain with Rainforest Sealer and topcoat with Mountain XT Clear 00 until the wood fiber is completely covered. Mountain XT is engineered to be flexible enough to move with most wood without delaminating. If you use XT as a topcoat you are committing to maintaining that film and you must test first to make sure your wood type will support a long term film. The wood must be weathered at least one year.
Deck Testing: 1.) Wash with Lime Clean. 2.) Apply a single penetrating coat of Mountain XT Deck Stain to the entire deck. 3.) Coat a few horizontal deck boards for testing. Choose high weather exposure boards and top coat fully with Mountain XT Clear 00. 4.) Observe these test boards over the course of a year. If they still look perfect in a year, you know what the best deck stain is. Then the next time you do your deck you follow the steps above but add step five. 5.) Apply Mountain XT Clear 00 until the wood fiber is fully covered.
To maintain a Stain and Topcoat just sand, clean and recoat the areas that look weathered or appear to need it every spring and it will get stronger and stronger. If you use XT as a penetrating oil stain you can just let it go. But it if you use the Rainforest and then XT as the topcoat you will create a film that needs to be recoated in the areas that get worn the fastest. The nice thing about this option is that its pretty easy to maintain if you keep up with it. The deck doesn't need to be completely stripped and redone and the layers build up fastest in the areas that need it. Testing first is a vital first step. So just do one coat this year and watch the test area to see how it does.
What We Do On Our Pressure Treated Decks: Wash first with Lime Clean- Wood and Deck Cleaner. Then we stain the deck with Light Cedar, Brown Cedar or Cinnamon Stick. These are favorite stain colors for pressure treated decks. Rails: Rainforest and Mountain XT is applied to all the rails and then we don't worry about anything but the top rail for a long time. Rails weather well and with a good stain and topcoat they last a long time. The horizontal top rail needs to be checked every year but this is very easy to do. Deck Floor: For the horizontal surfaces just a single penetrating coat of Mountain XT is the best. This way if we get busy or don't feel like checking the deck in the spring we don't have to. When all things are considered this is really the best deck stain system for pressure treated wood.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Pressure Treated Wood: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer.
Ipe'Primarily decks. This is a hard, oily deck wood with lots of tannic acid. It dries out fast and tends to crack and split if not coated. Ipe turns grey quickly outdoors with sun and water exposure. If you like the grey look and don't mind some splitting its fine to leave untreated. If you want the original reddish brown hues to remain visible you will need to coat your deck. Its really too bad this wood is cut down from Rainforests and I don't believe for a second that its sustainably forested. BUT since it's been cut down and shipped thousands of miles it may as well be preserved the best possible way. We spent many years looking at this wood in particular and have found a couple great solutions that work very well on Ipe decks. To be clear nothing we have seen works nearly as well or looks as good as the following system on Ipe Decks.
New Ipe Deck: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. This will nuetralize all of the tannic acid that is on or near the surface. Rinse with Pure White Distilled Vinegar if you are not staining the wood and want to brighten it. Dry well, sand lightly and apply Rainforest or Mountain XT as a penetrating sealer. This can be applied clear and is really just the first step to long term Ipe preservation. This first step cleans the oils and allows the wood to dry slowly while minimizing any cracking and splitting in the deck.
6-12 Months later: Wash again with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. Dry, sand lightly (100 grit on pole sander quickly) Brush on a coat of Rainforest. Top coat with Mountain XT until the wood fiber is completely covered. This system holds up very well and because Ipe is so hard, once the oils are nuetralized the Mountain XT keeps that rich, beautiful reddish brown color. Make sure you check the horizontal surfaces every spring and recoat the boards that need it. Do this and you will have the best looking deck on the planet. (If you don't plan on doing any yearly check up on your deck apply only one penetrating coat of Mountain XT. ) Antil Slip Deck Finish: Broadcast (throw fast high into the air) fine sand over the wet deck to create an even, good looking anti slip effect.
Penetrating Stain and Color Selection: If you just want to apply a penetrating stain the best looking colors for Ipe are Brown Cedar and Cinnamon Stick. The longest lasting colors are Raisin, Toffee and Cinnamon Stick. Brown Cedar holds up nearly as well as Cinnamon Stick but not as long. On weathered Ipe that is fully acclimated when stained the Cinnamon Stick has held up for 2-3 years before needing recoating.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Ipe: Unfortunately, this is what too many Ipe decks have become. Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. Dry, Sand well if you want to reveal the fresh wood underneath. Or if you plan on staining the wood a reddish color such as Bark or Cinnamon Stick tends to look better. Coat with Rainforest. Top coat with Mountain XT until the wood is completely covered. Your deck now looks much better, much longer.
Cedar and Redwood
Mostly decks and siding. Cedar is a great looking wood that weathers well. Turns grey and black when untreated. If you don't mind the weathered look it can be left untreated until it needs to be replaced. If you want that rich golden brown cedar tone then we have the best wood finish for you. Rainforest and Mountain XT look absolutely amazing on Cedar and Redwood!
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish: To get a long lasting clear natural finish on cedar you actually will do best by adding a little stain. Brown Cedar is the best color for this since it matches the wood nicely and provides a goot bit of protection against UV Radiation. Apply one coat of Mountain XT tinted to Brown Cedar.
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish with a Weather Barrier Topcoat: Cedar and Redwood can be kept in great shape even longer with a top coat of Mountain XT Clear 00. Do this on vertical surfaces and leave the horizontal surfaces with one penetrating oil finish of Mountain XT. For vertical siding, rails, timbers and trim made out of cedar coat first with Rainforest tinted to Brown Cedar. This is your flexible base coat. Then top coat with Mountain XT clear, until the wood fibers are completely covered. This is a super long lasting cedar finish that resists greying and black mold stains better than anything we have seen.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Cedar: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer. If your wood darkens upon washing simply spray, roll or pour White Distilled Vinegar onto the wood and let it dry in the sun without rinsing it.
Mahogany
A beautiful and rich colored wood that is used inside as well as outside for decks and trim. It is a hard wood that accepts coatings well. Mahogany looks stunning with Rainforest and Mountain XT. Rainforest really brings up the grain and XT keeps it that way with more depth. It's unusual to see an exterior wood this rich and charactered. If you own a mahogany deck or trim you are very fortunate.
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. To get a long lasting clear natural wood finish on mahogany you actually will do best by adding a little stain. Honey, Light Cedar and Brown Cedar all look nice on Mahogany. Brown Cedar gives teh most protection against UV Radiation of these three colors. Cinnamon Stick is a nice light color that holds up the best in harsh sunlight. Its fine to choose any color you like or leave it clear, we simply find that a light stain helps over the years. Brush and roll one coat of Mountain XT tinted into your mahogany deck or trim for the best finish. Rainforest can also be used the same way with exceptional results but XT is the best.
Penetrating Natural Wood Finish with a Weather Barrier Topcoat: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. Dry thoroughly (below 18%). Sand lightly (100 grit on pole sander quickly) Brush on a coat of Rainforest. Top coat with Mountain XT until the wood fiber is completely covered; Two coats. Broadcast fine sand over the wet deck to create a real even, good looking anti slip effect. This system holds up very well and because mahogany is so hard, once the oils are nuetralized the Mountain XT keeps that rich, beautiful golden brown color. Make sure you check the horizontal surfaces every spring and recoat the boards that need it. Do this and you will have the best looking deck on the planet. (If you don't plan on doing any yearly check up on your deck apply only one penetrating coat of Mountain XT on horizontal surfaces. )
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Mahogany: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer.
White Pine Logs
Very common wood used for log homes. A soft wood wood with alot of movement while weathering. Susceptible to black mold, algae, fungi, splitting and cracking as well as insects. A good wood preservative treatment is recommended such as a borate treatment. Once you have that applied this and allowed the wood to dry for at least 2-4 weeks, you are ready for Rainforest and Mountain XT.
Penetrating Natural Log Finish Stain: Wash weathered logs that are untreated and outside for more than 2 weeks. Even though they may look fine, these are dirty logs that need to be washed with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner to get microbrials off as well as break the mill glaze. To get a long lasting natural finish on White Pine Logs you actually will do best by adding a little stain. Any of our wood stains are good for this but the log finish stains are ideally suited for white pine logs and provide a goot bit of protection against UV Radiation. Apply one coat of Mountain XT tinted the desired stain color by brush and roller and let it soak deeply into the wood.
Penetrating Natural Log Finish Stain with a Weather Barrier Topcoat: White Pine Logs can be kept in great shape even longer with a top coat of Mountain XT. Do this on vertical surfaces and leave the horizontal surfaces with one penetrating oil finish of Mountain XT. For vertical siding, rails, timbers and trim made out of White Pine Logs coat first with Rainforest tinted to a stain color. This is your flexible base coat. Then top coat with Mountain XT clear 00, until the wood fibers are completely covered. This is a super long lasting White Pine Logs finish that resists greying and black mold stains better than anything we have seen. This also significantly reduces splitting and cracking at the center, heartwood area of the log.
Log Homes can be coated the Rainforest Clear 00 and two coats of Mountain XT Clear 00. This is an all natural clear finish that allows the full glory of the wood to show through and lasts incredibley. A clear maintenance coats should be applied 2, 3, 5 year intervals using Mountain XT Clear 00. This is probably the best looking, longest lasting log finish there is.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered White Pine Logs: Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and watch as your wood is cleaned and brought back to life! Then simply follow the steps outlined above and your wood finish will look much better, much longer.
Locust
Primarily decks. This is a hard, rot resistant wood with an incredible naturally golden color. It dries out fast and tends to crack and split if not coated. Locust turns grey and black quickly outdoors with sun and water exposure. If you like the grey look and don't mind some splitting its fine to leave untreated. If you want the original golden hues to remain visible you will need to coat your deck. These golden hues will take on a rich reddish gold color int the sun. We spent many years looking at this wood in particular and have found a couple great solutions that work very well on locust decks. To be clear nothing we have seen works nearly as well or looks as good as the following system on locust Decks.
New Locust Deck & Trim: Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner. This will clean the wood and nuetralize all of the tannic acid that is on or near the surface. Rinse with Pure White Distilled Vinegar if you want to brighten up the color after washing. Dry well, sand lightly and apply Mountain XT as a penetrating sealer and wood stain. This can be applied clear but if you add some Honey stain it will weather better and not dramatically effect the color the wood is going to turn in the sun. We've also found that using half of the Brown Cedar stain formula looks really nice on new Locust. This is really just the first step to long term locust preservation. This first step cleans the oils and allows the wood to dry slowly while minimizing any cracking and splitting in the deck. Your deck is then correctly prepared for the long term protection in the next step.
6-12 Months Later: Wash again with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and rinse with water. Then pour White Distilled Vinegar onto the wood and let dry in the sun to brighten it up. Dry, sand 50 grit. Brush on a coat of Rainforest Sealer Clear 00 and then two coats of Mountain XT Clear 00. This system holds up very well and because locust is so hard, once the oils are nuetralized the Mountain XT keeps that rich, beautiful golden red color. Make sure you check the horizontal surfaces every spring and recoat the boards that need it with Mountain XT Clear 00. Do this and you will have the best looking deck on the planet. (If you don't plan on doing any yearly check up on your deck apply only one penetrating coat of Mountain XT. )
In harsh, high sun climates like the Arizona desert it is best to apply a penetrating stain of Cinnamon Stick or Brown Cedar. Then you can do a 1 year test of Mountain XT Clear 00 on a few boards and make sure the heat and UV Radiation are not too intense on the wood. In these climates Locust needs extra time to acclimate before top coating since intense heat and uv will make the wood expand and contract more and the heat effects the way the tannins work within the wood cells. As a general rule if you have a wood deck desert like climates you should plan on using Rainforest Sealer Cinnamon Stick or Brown Cedar as a one coat penetrating stain.
Black, Old, Horribly Weathered Locust Deck and Trim: Unfortunately, this is what too many locust decks have become. Don't worry, simply Wash with Lime Clean - Wood and Deck Cleaner and see your deck come back to life! Follow the steps in the "6-12 months later" outline above and your deck will look much better, much longer.
Interior Wood Finish Options Listed by Wood Type
Oak
Oak is most often stained first. It accepts the stain fairly even with the grain accepting a great bit more color. This makes the grain pop or stain out more. Some times people want to keep the lighter tones of the wood. To do this use Bio Poly NT as a clear rubbing oil or use NanoTech for a hard protective film that stays clear.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Oak: Mountain makes the best stain for oak. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The oak tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Oak: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will soak in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is becaus it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Oak: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for oak. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Oak Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact on maple we've seen it yellow less after 4 years than a section that was left raw and untreated.
Mopped On Oak Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Pine
Pine is a very common wood. It is know for its blotchy stain acceptance. Its generally not easy to stain pine and get it to look like cedar or mahogany or walnut but this is often requested. It's a soft wood that can be preconditioned to limit the blotchy stain acceptance. To do this just cut the product you are using in half and the recoat with full strength stain 1 to 12 hours later as desired. You will need to work out your formula and method before doing large areas. Pine probably takes the most time to get the color and method correct. Do samples first and get it all set before starting. Some times people want to keep the lighter tones of the wood. To do this use Bio Poly NT as a clear rubbing oil or use NanoTech for a hard protective film that stays clear.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Pine: Mountain makes the best stain for Pine. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Pine tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the pine a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Pine: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Pine: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for Pine. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Pine Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Pine Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Yellow Pine
Yellow Pine often comes with a hard mill glaze on it. This must be AGGRESSIVELY sanded off in order to get proper stain acceptance. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 if desired. Yellow Pins is known for its blotchy stain acceptance. Its generally not easy to stain Yellow Pine and get it to look like cedar or mahogany or walnut but this is often requested. It's a soft wood that can be preconditioned to limit the blotchy stain acceptance. To do this just cut the product you are using in half and the recoat with full strength stain 1 to 12 hours later as desired. You will need to work out your formula and method before doing large areas. Yellow Pine takes alot of time to get the color and method correct. Do samples first and get it all set before starting. Some times people want to keep the lighter tones of the wood. To do this use Bio Poly NT as a clear rubbing oil or use NanoTech for a hard protective film that stays clear.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Yellow Pine: Mountain makes the best stain for Yellow Pine. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Yellow Pine tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Yellow Pine a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Yellow Pine: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Yellow Pine: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Yellow Pine Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Yellow Pine Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Heart Pine
Heart Pine is often a RECLAIMED WOOD. It most alway needs an 4-5 coats. It tends to be very dry and thirsty wood. If you're lucky enough to have new Heart Pine then it should be a 2-3 coat process. Many people want their Heart Pine to stay just like it does when it's raw. This won't happen since it will darken even if left raw. Bio Poly NT keeps it very natural looking and darkens it up minimally and probably looks the best, bringing up the rich, red toned grains. NanoTech darkens it the least and stays very clear. Importantly, there can be sap that comes out of Heart Pine. This can cause coating failure. If your not sure if your wood is done releasing sap coat it with Bio Poly NT and go back over it a year later with a topcoat if desired.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Heart Pine: Mountain makes the best stain for Heart Pine. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Heart Pine tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Heart Pine a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Heart Pine: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Heart Pine: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Heart Pine Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Heart Pine Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Maple
Maple can have some of the more exquisite figuring and wood grain. It looks fantastic when coated with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Maple. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Maple: Mountain makes the best stain for Maple. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Maple tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Maple a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Maple: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Maple: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Maple Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger maple we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Maple Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Cherry
Cherry can have some of the more exquisite figuring and wood grain. It looks fantastic when coated with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Cherry. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Cherry: Mountain makes the best stain for Cherry. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Cherry tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Cherry a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Cherry: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Cherry: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Cherry Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Cherry we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Cherry Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Walnut
Walnut is just unbelievably awesome. What a great looking wood! Rich browns are blown righ out of the wood and the grain can really jump when rubbed with Bio Poly NT. It looks fantastic when coated with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Walnut. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to. NanoTech can be used as well and some contractors are able to get a nice rubbed sating finish with product simply by sanding in between coats.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Walnut: Mountain makes the best stain for Walnut. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Walnut tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Walnut a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Walnut: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Walnut: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Walnut Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Walnut we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Walnut Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Sycamore
Sycamore is a spectacular looking wood that is not as stable and tends to crack more easily. It looks fantastic when rubbed with Bio Poly NT. This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Sycamore. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Sycamore: Mountain makes the best stain for Sycamore. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Sycamore tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Sycamore a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Sycamore: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Sycamore: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Sycamore Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Sycamore we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Sycamore Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.
Brazillian Cherry
Brazillian Cherry looks absolutely exotic when rubbed with Bio Poly NT. It looks fantastic when coated with Mountain as well. But the rubbed finish on this wood is one of the best! This keeps the light tones and make the grain pop more than anything else. Some people like the warm amber tones of Mountain on Brazillian Cherry. Using a tiered sandpaper approach is the best way to get a super natural wood finish. Use 80 grit > 100>120>150>220>320. Phase up your sandpaper to erase the previous papers scratches. Go up to 150 and stain then sand up to 320 or higher if desired. We wet sand Bio Poly NT into real nice pieces that we want to give extra attention to.
Dry Brush a Wood Stain into Brazillian Cherry: Mountain makes the best stain for Brazillian Cherry. It can be brushed on uniformly and then gone over immediately with a dry, high quality brush. Have a rag handy to dry the brush off as you go if too much product gets on the brush. Brush the Mountain across the wood surface in an even way and use the dry brush to even it out and take off any excess product. All of the stain must soak into the wood. You will know you did this properly if no shiny patches exist after an hour or two. The Brazillian Cherry tends to soak in all the product and leaves a rich, uniform coat. Mountain will harden the Brazillian Cherry a great deal as well. NanoTech can be used in the same way for a faster drying finish.
Rubbing Oil Finish into Brazillian Cherry: Use Bio Poly NT tinted as a stain or clear. Brush on with a high quality brush and use a second dry brush or rag to rub into the wood fibers. The first coat will absorb in overnight more easily than the second coat. You will want to apply two or three coats for good protection. On the second coat wipe on with a rag and rub into the wood. Wipe off with a dry rag and leave the surface smooth and polished with NO Residue on the surface. If you see shiny spots on the wood that is because it was not wiped off properly. It should leave a beautiful natural satin finish that is uniform and even. You can polish with Looking Glass Beeswax Polish if desired.
Varnish or Laqcuer on Brazillian Cherry: Apply Mountain as a stain or clear coat. This is a water proof, super durable natural Varnish for wood. Brush on two or three thin coats with a fine bristle brush. For a fast drying water based lacquer use NanoTech. Brushed or wiped. When wiped with foam floor applicator pad NanoTech looks like a sprayed finish.
Machine Buffed Brazillian Cherry Floor Oil Finish: Use Bio Poly NT for a low traffic floor. This is the best looking wood floor finish and is an all natural wood finish as well. Easy to do and beautiful results. Can be topcoated later if desired. Brings out the wood grain better than anything else we've seen. Darkens wood somewhat but stays pretty clear over time. In fact, on tiger Brazillian Cherry we've seen it yellow less than raw wood after 4 years exposure.
Mopped On Brazillian Cherry Floor Finish: For the hardest, toughest floor use Mountain. This is a slow drying, mop on coating that is extremely tough and all natural. Use NanoTech for a fast drying floor finish. You can apply three coats in a day on a wood floor and walk on it a couple hours later with practically no odor.