I'm adding some new red oak flooring and refinishing the original red oak flooring that was sealed with oil based poly. We have dogs and need a tough, non toxic floor finish to replace the toxic oil polyurethane.
I'm adding some new red oak flooring and refinishing the original red oak flooring that was originally sealed with oil based poly. I am using the same contractor that installed the original floor. Once the new floor is laid and the original floor is sanded we want to stain both a darker shade than the original natural red oak finish.
I have large dogs and need a durable finish. Soooo, which stain/finish would you recommend, what kind of finish longevity can I expect, and what sheens are available? Additionally, I am concerned with VOCs, toxins and long-term VOC/toxin exposure in our home environment.
We we want spruce up parquet floor to sell our condo. It was finished 6 years ago with NanoTech and it still looks good? We have NanoTech left over from 2012. Can we use that?
We have a parquet floor in my condo. We are moving and I want to spruce it up to sell. We used NanoTech 6 years ago. We didn't sand the floor. It went right over top of the existing oil based finish. It has worked great. Can we recoat again? Can we use the leftover NanoTech?
What is the best natural floor finish for wide plank New England Pine floors? We're active with kids, dogs and want a rustic pine floor look.
We have a 2,400 square foot home which we just laid unfinished wide plank New England Pine throughout. The floors are on the soft side (very easily dented). We have two young boys, a small dog, and live on 4 acres. We are a very active family, high traffic. We are located in Raleigh, NC.
We went with the pine knowing they were soft and easily dented, but wanted more of a farmhouse feel and didn't want to feel "worried" about spending a lot of money to then have our boys scratch and dent the floors.
We'd love something with no odor as it's a DIY project, fast drying, stain-look, and two part (separate stain and sealer applications). These are our preferences. Please give us some idea as to what we should be looking for.
Thank you so much for such a thorough explanation of the Bio Poly and Nano Tech products. It is really helpful!
For now, we may go with 1-3 coats of Bio Poly and at a later moment use the Nano Tech. We are interested in finding out if the Bio Poly truly needs a huge machine buffer to work it into the floor or if we could use something smaller instead. Online we see many battery operated, small hand buffers- but are unsure if these are only used to polish cars or if they can replace a hardwood floor buffer. Do you happen to know if any hand tools can replace a huge buffer?
We don't mind if it takes extra time.
Also, what type of brush would allow us to get the smoothest finish?
I would have preferred an engineered pre-finished pine but find the choices very limited and expensive. If I go with solid pine unfinished, it is more cost effective but I am concerned about the quality and safety of the finish.
I prefer a matte look to the finish. Concern for wear and trying to avoid daily vacuuming, I am looking for a natural look with durability. I don't think I can get that with an oil seal finish.
What do you suggest? I saw on your site a pine floor stated to be finished with the bio poly and topped with nano tech. With the nano tech on top?
Does that make it shinier?
Does your finish end up as hard as a prefinished floor? Is it safer?
I am so tired of doing research and want to get on with getting the job done but I don't want to make the wrong choice.
FYI, This would be for my 2nd floor, about 750-850 sq ft at this time. There is much less wear and tear on the 2nd fl. If everything goes well there, I would consider it for the first floor .
HOPE TO HEAR FROM YOU SOON.
many thanks for your input,
xxxxxxx In New Jersey
Tom Rioux founded Earthpaint after becoming severely ill as a professional paint contractor.