Earthpaint is honored to help in the Bahamas Relief effort. As we discussed earlier, this email will serve as a reference for your construction crews using Lime Prime
It's so sad what this hurricane did to the great people of Bahamas! Most of the Abacos was destroyed. For the buildings still standing, Preventing a mold nightmare is high priority. Lime Prime is the only way I know of to spray those buildings right away so people can move in fast. This should help reduce stress, health risks and buy time for Follow-Up repairs as everything dries out. Waiting for it all to dry before painting is asking for a mold nightmare. Everything just gets moldy as people move back in and then it's harder to fix. We spray it with Lime Prime now. Let it dry and Follow up.
Avoiding Mold Atriums & Rot: As you well know, relief efforts can be stressful and hurried. A Mold Atrium can be created when moisture logged areas get trapped with the wrong paint. Paint that seems to work on mold surfaces may not be made to work on
We loved the lime prime you sent us. we sprayed the whole interior studs after gutting the house. Changed the smell of the house drastically. Amazing!!
We have old red oak hardwood floors (1200sq ft) that need to be sanded and refinished. We want to go with an ebony color. What would be the easiest for us to do without messing it up. Need a non toxic stain and sealer for heavy traffic. I want to order some samples just wanted to check with you first!!
After the hurricanes and flooding our Property Management company has been unable to keep up with all of the mold damage. Many people have gotten sick from black mold and we need a way to prevent this from happening again. Can Lime Prime be used after flooding? What if there is a lot of mold infested in wet wood and drywall? Would coating the frame of a house during construction help?
We have Redwood Decks in high sun, snow and high altitude and need a deck stain to help match our cedar siding.
Wondering how I would need to prepare my redwood deck for your product. Would a good sanding be enough, had many years of oil based stains on it. Would your product penetrate if there was a little oil stain left in the wood? Do you sell small color samples? Trying to match the red cedar on our home.
Has anyone had success using your products on earthen buildings which need to breathe?
I think I might have used the orange oil the wrong way.
I am wondering if I need to combine it with the linseed oil
just worried about mold here in GA?
I have a house built about 1890. It's not a gracious old mansion or anything particularly special. It was built on brick piers with 6X6 oak beams running between the piers. It has no basement and the clearance between the ground underneath and the oak beams is between 12 and 30 inches.
My question for you is if there's an Earthpaint product or products that you'd recommend to seal the beams against further moisture damage. If so, I'd appreciate any thoughts on what to use and what kind of preparation I'd need to to do. I'm thinking that I might also apply Lime Prime to the beams for protection against mold. And I'm unsure of whether I'd need to clean the wood before applying Lime Prime.
I plan to put 6 mil plastic in the crawl space for a vapor barrier as part of insulating the crawl space. Of course there is no vapor barrier between the brick piers and the oak beams. And as a result over the years, there has been some damage to the beams from moisture being wicked up through the brick and mortar support piers. Ideally, I'd like to raise the support beams enough to insert a moisture barrier. But I'm still researching the feasibility of that.
Thanks for any advice and assistance you can offer.
Hi, I am interested in getting a gallon of your lime prime. Do I need to clean the studs and wall that has some slight mold on it or do I just paint right over it? And do I need to order from you or are there stores that you supply that I could buy from?
I'm adding some new red oak flooring and refinishing the original red oak flooring that was sealed with oil based poly. We have dogs and need a tough, non toxic floor finish to replace the toxic oil polyurethane.
I'm adding some new red oak flooring and refinishing the original red oak flooring that was originally sealed with oil based poly. I am using the same contractor that installed the original floor. Once the new floor is laid and the original floor is sanded we want to stain both a darker shade than the original natural red oak finish.
I have large dogs and need a durable finish. Soooo, which stain/finish would you recommend, what kind of finish longevity can I expect, and what sheens are available? Additionally, I am concerned with VOCs, toxins and long-term VOC/toxin exposure in our home environment.
We we want spruce up parquet floor to sell our condo. It was finished 6 years ago with NanoTech and it still looks good? We have NanoTech left over from 2012. Can we use that?
We have a parquet floor in my condo. We are moving and I want to spruce it up to sell. We used NanoTech 6 years ago. We didn't sand the floor. It went right over top of the existing oil based finish. It has worked great. Can we recoat again? Can we use the leftover NanoTech?
Hello - I am pregnant and planning to purchase your Baby Safe Crib Finish for an unfinished birch crib and a second product, likely the Special Linseed Oil to finish newly installed interior stain grade doors (pine i think). I have a few questions:
...How does the Bio Poly Natural product differ from the Linseed Oil - would you recommend one or the other for the door project?
Is second finishing product needed after the linseed oil or bio poly application?
Is 2 pints enough for the door project - two 15 light french doors? Last question, are these products safe to use in a well ventilated area while pregnant? Thank you!
Tom Rioux founded Earthpaint after becoming severely ill as a professional paint contractor.