I have a house built about 1890. It's not a gracious old mansion or anything particularly special. It was built on brick piers with 6X6 oak beams running between the piers. It has no basement and the clearance between the ground underneath and the oak beams is between 12 and 30 inches.
My question for you is if there's an Earthpaint product or products that you'd recommend to seal the beams against further moisture damage. If so, I'd appreciate any thoughts on what to use and what kind of preparation I'd need to to do. I'm thinking that I might also apply Lime Prime to the beams for protection against mold. And I'm unsure of whether I'd need to clean the wood before applying Lime Prime.
I plan to put 6 mil plastic in the crawl space for a vapor barrier as part of insulating the crawl space. Of course there is no vapor barrier between the brick piers and the oak beams. And as a result over the years, there has been some damage to the beams from moisture being wicked up through the brick and mortar support piers. Ideally, I'd like to raise the support beams enough to insert a moisture barrier. But I'm still researching the feasibility of that.
Thanks for any advice and assistance you can offer.
Hi, I am interested in getting a gallon of your lime prime. Do I need to clean the studs and wall that has some slight mold on it or do I just paint right over it? And do I need to order from you or are there stores that you supply that I could buy from?
I'm adding some new red oak flooring and refinishing the original red oak flooring that was sealed with oil based poly. We have dogs and need a tough, non toxic floor finish to replace the toxic oil polyurethane.
I'm adding some new red oak flooring and refinishing the original red oak flooring that was originally sealed with oil based poly. I am using the same contractor that installed the original floor. Once the new floor is laid and the original floor is sanded we want to stain both a darker shade than the original natural red oak finish.
I have large dogs and need a durable finish. Soooo, which stain/finish would you recommend, what kind of finish longevity can I expect, and what sheens are available? Additionally, I am concerned with VOCs, toxins and long-term VOC/toxin exposure in our home environment.
We we want spruce up parquet floor to sell our condo. It was finished 6 years ago with NanoTech and it still looks good? We have NanoTech left over from 2012. Can we use that?
We have a parquet floor in my condo. We are moving and I want to spruce it up to sell. We used NanoTech 6 years ago. We didn't sand the floor. It went right over top of the existing oil based finish. It has worked great. Can we recoat again? Can we use the leftover NanoTech?
Hello - I am pregnant and planning to purchase your Baby Safe Crib Finish for an unfinished birch crib and a second product, likely the Special Linseed Oil to finish newly installed interior stain grade doors (pine i think). I have a few questions:
...How does the Bio Poly Natural product differ from the Linseed Oil - would you recommend one or the other for the door project?
Is second finishing product needed after the linseed oil or bio poly application?
Is 2 pints enough for the door project - two 15 light french doors? Last question, are these products safe to use in a well ventilated area while pregnant? Thank you!
Hi, I am trying to see if you have a good primer to put over plaster walls, after the wallpaper is removed. It appears that the standard idea is to put on a primer, to cover any remaining adhesive, but I like to avoid the chemicals in products like Kilz, etc. Please advise!
Is stain safe for babies? I built my own baby crib out of pine. I want to stain it and of course i want to to be baby safe. My wife wants it to have color as well.
I built my own baby crib out of pine. I want to stain it and of course i want to to be baby safe. My wife wants it to have color as well. I was looking at the bio poly with color. My questions are is the bio poly with color safe for a baby crib and does something else need to be applied before the bio poly of after the bio poly?
Walnut Plank Countertops, I want to illuminate the wood grain and protect from steam? Also... to finish Ash but keep the light wood color, not turn yellow.
I am doing 2 kitchen projects.
1. Walnut plank countertops--I would like a food safe , easily repairable finish for these plank tops. I don't really want a finish like a lacquer. More of a natural rub on finish that I could then easily sand down a scraped up section of wood and rub some new finish on.
2. I am making a range hood cover and the "skin" will be with reclaimed white oak planks. For this I just want a clear finish but I need something that can handle the steam and heat from the stove and can be wiped down clean.
What do you recommend for these two applications?
I'm building a black locust deck and the customer wants grey patina look on the deck. Area being done is some total shade some total sun. Customer doesn’t want the huge variation and doesn’t want to wait a season to change.
The deck is in Chicago area.
What's the best way to stain this deck? How long will it last? What kind of maintenance should we expect?
I have a standard sized (5'x7') bathroom in my home that is difficult to keep the mold at bay in, on the ceiling and walls. I'd like to finish it with something that would paint over this mold and provide an inhospitable environment for future growth.
The existing wall surface is textured (I could smooth out to a degree) and painted with a latex paint.
I estimate the surface area to be less than 200 square feet (~170).
Which products would you recommend and the quantity? What would the price be, including shipping to Idaho, zip code 83301?
Thanks much for your time!
Tom Rioux founded Earthpaint after becoming severely ill as a professional paint contractor.