I have a standard sized (5'x7') bathroom in my home that is difficult to keep the mold at bay in, on the ceiling and walls. I'd like to finish it with something that would paint over this mold and provide an inhospitable environment for future growth.
The existing wall surface is textured (I could smooth out to a degree) and painted with a latex paint.
I estimate the surface area to be less than 200 square feet (~170).
Which products would you recommend and the quantity? What would the price be, including shipping to Idaho, zip code 83301?
Thanks much for your time!
We would like to have hardwood flooring installed (about 550 Sq. Ft.) but our daughter is unable to clear toxins from her body. We also need it to be waterproof as we have older dogs who sometimes have accidents so we would need to wet mop. We spoke to a hardwood dealer who said there is no way to use hardwood under our circumstances. Would your product truly work for our situation and how would we find a contractor who would be able to apply it?
I need instruction steps for application of Bio Poly Natural on a large wood home.
What's the best way to apply the finish to hardwood trim?
How many coats?
Sand between coats?
Finish coat a different product?
Where can I buy BioPoly in quantity in southern Maine?
What is the best high gloss finish to replace toxic lacquers in a UV Finishing Line Machine? We need to fill in deep wood grain of Wenage.
Can your product be used in the UV line?
Can I use your products as a Sealer. Then normal UV treatment Sealer. Primer filler. Topcoat . 90 gloss coat.
We use wood with name Wenage , that has very wide grain and give us trouble with finishing top coat 90 Gloss surface.
The lacquer will sink in to material and the surface will be like ripples .
Will your product penetrate in to the fibres more efficient./
Tell me the lacquer of your products I need to seal the fibres.
What is the best natural floor finish for wide plank New England Pine floors? We're active with kids, dogs and want a rustic pine floor look.
We have a 2,400 square foot home which we just laid unfinished wide plank New England Pine throughout. The floors are on the soft side (very easily dented). We have two young boys, a small dog, and live on 4 acres. We are a very active family, high traffic. We are located in Raleigh, NC.
We went with the pine knowing they were soft and easily dented, but wanted more of a farmhouse feel and didn't want to feel "worried" about spending a lot of money to then have our boys scratch and dent the floors.
We'd love something with no odor as it's a DIY project, fast drying, stain-look, and two part (separate stain and sealer applications). These are our preferences. Please give us some idea as to what we should be looking for.
Thank you so much for such a thorough explanation of the Bio Poly and Nano Tech products. It is really helpful!
For now, we may go with 1-3 coats of Bio Poly and at a later moment use the Nano Tech. We are interested in finding out if the Bio Poly truly needs a huge machine buffer to work it into the floor or if we could use something smaller instead. Online we see many battery operated, small hand buffers- but are unsure if these are only used to polish cars or if they can replace a hardwood floor buffer. Do you happen to know if any hand tools can replace a huge buffer?
We don't mind if it takes extra time.
Also, what type of brush would allow us to get the smoothest finish?
I would have preferred an engineered pre-finished pine but find the choices very limited and expensive. If I go with solid pine unfinished, it is more cost effective but I am concerned about the quality and safety of the finish.
I prefer a matte look to the finish. Concern for wear and trying to avoid daily vacuuming, I am looking for a natural look with durability. I don't think I can get that with an oil seal finish.
What do you suggest? I saw on your site a pine floor stated to be finished with the bio poly and topped with nano tech. With the nano tech on top?
Does that make it shinier?
Does your finish end up as hard as a prefinished floor? Is it safer?
I am so tired of doing research and want to get on with getting the job done but I don't want to make the wrong choice.
FYI, This would be for my 2nd floor, about 750-850 sq ft at this time. There is much less wear and tear on the 2nd fl. If everything goes well there, I would consider it for the first floor .
HOPE TO HEAR FROM YOU SOON.
many thanks for your input,
xxxxxxx In New Jersey
Wood Floor Finishing with Biopoly and NanoTech. Questions for Finishing our Wood Floors Ourselves. We have kids, dogs and cats!
We are very interested in using your natural products on a floor we intend to strip carpet off and sand down wood flooring in a new house, hoping to begin in just about a week.
We had several questions:
1. For a natural finish, would you recommend biopoly and then 3-4 coats of clear nanotech? We have a child who plays with toys like train sets on the floor and would want to protect floors from accidental spills. The floors will be hardwood and sanded. Also our old cat has some vomiting accidents- would the combination of bio poly and nanotech provide adequate protection? Could biopoly by itself offer adequate protection?
2. What is the dry time of bio poly before we apply nanotech?
3. It said something about buffing the biopoly before applying the nanotech. What does that mean exactly?
4. What do you recommend to clean up after the floor is sanded before applying biopoly as the first coat?
5 . How quickly can you ship to Pennsylvania? We are hoping to start our project on November 15.
6. Any other tips? Or other product recommendations? Recommended tools? Our goal is to have a non toxic floor that we can touch up as time goes by. I read that biopoly can be touched up but not sure if nanotech can. Can you advise?
We are very excited but also a little bit feeling unexperienced at the idea of doing our own floor. Any tips would be most appreciated. We are hoping to have a seamless application without evident strokes of paint, which highlights the natural beauty and warm luster of healthy, glowing wood.
I am wanting to purchase your products for my Douglas Fir Siding. I just need to know what colors of stain and the sealant you would recommend. My home will be rough sawn 10" wide Fir and will also have some gouges. My wish is for it to appear very rustic and quite old even though it is brand new. I plan to buy a few samples first so I can see how it looks before buying a large quantity. Any layering techniques with multiple colors etc. will be very helpful. I look forward to hearing from you.
We have a front porch, back screened in deck and a grilling deck that was constructed in 2014 when the house was built. I believe it is the standard pressure treated pine you talk about.
We live in central NC. We have done nothing to the wood since moving in. We would like to stain/waterproof these areas (and paint some).
Ideally we would like a semi transparent plum color for the front porch floor and semi transparent lighter blue for the screened in porch and grilling deck floors/stair steps. The front porch gets some indirect am sun and direct afternoon sun. The screened in porch gets some indirect am sun and the grilling deck gets indirect pm sun.
We'd also like to paint the railings and stair risers of the grilling deck and the support wood for the screened in porch with a good outdoor paint. Any recommendations as to what products and methods to accomplish this project will be appreciated.
Front Porch :
Back Screened in porch
Tom Rioux founded Earthpaint after becoming severely ill as a professional paint contractor.